So you want to be a surfer do you? I hope that you are prepared for what could become a significant life changing event. The last being when you had your umbilical cord cut for example, you see surfing could mean the severing of ties and readjusting your normality receptors once again. Leaving a trail of sick days at work and surf widows (male and female of course), uneaten cooked meals at tables and missed appointments with bank managers.
It will be a brand new learning curve for you, possibly a long, hard apprenticeship but one with bountiful rewards awaiting.
Lets not underestimate the lure of the ocean. Like the song of mermaids and sirens it has the power to alter your senses and lead you into temptation. how else can you explain why most northern hemisphere surfers brave extraordinarily cold temperatures to grab a handful of waves on the harshest of February mornings.
We as a breed are determined to collect our rewards. Like a fruit machine addict knows, it doesn't pay out all of the time but when it does it tends to be accompanied by amazing highs. As everyone slowly realises in life there are equal and opposite reactions to everything, it is only natural that surfers will eventually have to face up to this unavoidable come down.
Surfing is a fickle sport. There are so many factors to consider before putting the last of your hard earned cash into petrol to drive for three hours to get to the place where its"working". Amidst the conjecture from weather reports, word on the street etc. you have to bear in mind things like what tide does this beach work best? which way does the beach face? where is its best fetch likely to come from? is it a shifting peak beach break or shallow reef? are there any strong currents or rips - remember your safety is paramount. Ask yourself are you even fit enough to be able to paddle back in - be honest, when was the last time you swam continuous lengths at your local swimming pool. It is worth thinking about preparing for the physical aspect of surfing. At the end of the day however the best way to get fit for surfing is to get in the water, and as a beginner that means as much as possible!
The lows are bad i have to say. Long spells of flat months drive the strongest of minds to the far reaches of insanity, I'm not joking. This feeling is only made worse when the definitive reckoning hits home with every surfer - you are only on this planet for on average 650,000 hours. Half of which are probably already gone, if that doesn't smart enough, take off the time spent on work, old age, arguments, queuing, paying taxes and you slowly realise there is only so much time to catch as many waves as you can? So what are you waiting for?
On that note i won't dwell any longer on this depressing aspect. You will have to learn how to cope, there are no specific solutions as everyone is unique. It will help you find out a little more about yourself and what it is that makes you tick.
Good luck, god speed.
